Rødkål

The story

Sweet-and-sour braised red cabbage, rødkål, simmers slowly with red currant jelly or juice and vinegar, and in many homes an apple, until it takes on an almost translucent, dark texture. Its role on the Danish table is the same as in neighboring Norway and Sweden: to cut through the fat of rich meat, whether pork or duck, with acidity and sweetness. The Danish version is often somewhat sweeter than the Norwegian, with less caraway and more emphasis on the sweetness of currant, in keeping with the generally milder profile of Danish cooking compared with its neighbors. Many families make it a day or two in advance because the flavor only gains depth as it sits in the refrigerator, which is practical when the roast, the potatoes, and several kinds of cookies are all being prepared on the same day. Humble as a side dish, rødkål is nonetheless one of those foods about which Danes hold firm, often family-wide opinions on the proper level of tartness. For the diaspora, this side adapts easily to whatever berries are available without losing the spirit of the original.