Kuhani buncek sa zeljem, restanim krumpirom i hrenom

The story

Buncek is what Zagreb calls a ham hock, the lower part of the pig's leg between the ham and the foot; the word comes from the German Bein, leg. It is sold fresh or smoked, and for this plate it is smoked, then simmered slowly with bay leaves, peppercorns, onion and root vegetables until the skin cuts easily and the meat falls from the bone. The classic plate puts it next to braised sauerkraut and restani krumpir, potatoes boiled in their skins, sliced and fried with onion, with horseradish sauce on the side. Zagreb treats it as winter food, the season for dried and smoked meats. The sauerkraut and potato plate is often served in the mountain huts on Medvednica, the mountain above the city, buncek turns up at the winter street-food stands and in Zagreb restaurants, and chefs who cook the dishes of Zagorje serve it the same way. Nothing from the pot is wasted: a ladle of the cooking water goes into the sauerkraut and can go into the horseradish sauce too. Plan on about two and a half hours, most of it hands-off simmering, and set out a dish of pickles alongside.